DAY 3 Estella to Villamayor de Monjardin

We got up late today.  Both of us are very fatigued from all of the hills. We are Florida flat landers. Our feet are sore and mine are blistered. We agreed to walk only the 9 Kms (5.6 miles) to Villamayor de Monjardin and spend the remainder of the day resting and ofF of our feet.  The weather couldn't be more beautiful for walking.

We passed the famous wine fountain we have been talking about for months.  No wine!  I was worried for a moment that Vicky would go princess on me, but she didn't.  She just walked on.  It seemed liked a promise unfulfilled.

The scenery today was very enjoyable and the walk was often shaded.  We are staying in a private room with a private bath in an Albergue.  It is very new and clean.  It has a washer and dryer.  The hosts are very friendly.  However, they only speak Spanish.

Back at Estella

Ayegui

View of Ayegui

View from our room

Our Albergue

DAY 2. A DAY OF BRIDGES

We  met up with a Brit named Peter who later introduced us to a young American named Dylon.  Both were interesting and fun drinking companions.  We also ate dinner together and laughed into the night.  Thanks to Peter for giving me some blister protection tape.  I used it today and it was a big help.

Sleeping in the Albergue was an experience.  Vicky was the only female in the room.  Lots of snoring and I had trouble falling asleep.  The two Spanish men were big snorers, but Vicky definitely prove she was a contender.  I woke up a 4:30 am to the same harmony.  Vic said that I too was snoring in the early morning.

I miscalculated our mileage yesterday.  We walked 25 Kms which is 15.3 miles.  Our feet were sore so we  decided we would only walk 14 Kms.  Three of the Albergues listed in the directory are closed until Easter week so we were forced to walk all the way to Estella.  We walked 22 Kms or 13.4 miles.  Our feet are killing us.  I couldn't bear the thought of spending tonight in an Albergue so we are spending a night in a 4 star hotel; 90 euros per night.  We can' t make a habit of that.  I must confess I don't have any remorse about staying here tonight.

In addition, since it was Sunday, we weren't able to find lunch until 3 pm.  We have to have a better plan for Sundays.

The walking today was very difficult due to the number of hard surfaces.  The pain of the walk was offset by the beauty of the rivers and bridges we crossed.   We also walked the old Roman road which was both exhilarating and agonizing.  We also crossed bridges from Roman days and the Middle Ages.  We walked most of the day with our speedy German lady named Christa.  She is walking the Camino alone.  She is a good walking mate.  She will probably out walk us tomorrow so to her we say Buen Camino.

DAY 1 ON THE CAMINO

We left Pamplona this morning at 8:00.  We were walking the Camino at last, so we stopped for pastries.  Hey, we gotta eat!

We were soon being followed by other pilgrims on foot and on bikes.  All of them were friendly.  We met some Kiwis, an Austrian,  a Brit, one super fast walking German lady that is probably half way to Lograno by now.  The most impressive was an  Ausie woman carrying two backpacks; one larger than mine and one the size of Vicky's pack.  We asked why and she said she had other plans in Europe after her Camino.  You go girl!

We only stopped once, for lunch.  It was at an Albergue where we had planned to stay the night.  About 15 Kms from Pamplona.  The food was ok and the glass of beer was cold.  It was still early so we decided to walk the additional 3kms to the next town.  I thought Vic would go Princess on me, but she didn't.  As it turns out, the next Albergue we found was 7 Kms down the road.  Ouch!  We walked 22 Kms today. (Approximately, 13.4 miles).

Its no wonder my feet and back are killing me.   Vic says she is in good shape except for the foot she broke last year.  Thanks to my friend Dallas' advice I have an extra, comfortable pair of shoes with me.

We are staying at a private Albergue, Jakue for €12 each per night.  It is definitely different.  God help the four other room mates and Vic, I will be snoring tonight.

Unfortunately for us, Spain will go on daylight saving time tomorrow.  We will miss an hour of our sleep.  Siesta happens in Spain and everything closes.  The restaurant will open at 7:30.  Eat and bed! Sounds like a plan.  Until tomorrow, adios.

PAMPLONA AT NIGHT

We were hungry and restless so we decided to leave our room in Pension Leyre.  We were glad we did.  We found a city square, statues and a street with young people celebrating the day.  We decided to join in.  You get beer or wine with a pintxo (their spelling) of your choice for €2.  Not a bad deal, especially since it is all good.  We will return tonight for a light dinner.  We leave tomorrow.

Pamplona

PAMPLONA 

We slept late and then had lunch at Le Carousel Bar.  Special of the day included spaghetti with bolognese sauce, bread, wine, and desert for only €7 each.  Quite excellent and exceeded only by the warmth of our host Borga and their chef.

                                  

We then visited the fort at the west side of the city.  Walked through shops and many blocks.  We located the bull fighting ring and the roads where they run with the bulls.  They run with the bulls in July.

We also toured the fort on the East side of the city and got a good view of the foothills of the Pyrenees.

I found a Chinese barber to cut my hair short.  He did not speak English so our transaction was done with hand signals and grunts.

We also procured a cheap cell phone from Orange.  The sales rep was most kind, but she forgot to switch our language to English so we cannot understand the menus.

We also packed the German to English guide my mother bought us and left the English to Spanish behind.  Since we don't speak German, it is also of little use.  I already have a great deal more respect for the people that immigrate to America that don't yet speak English and will endeavor to be more helpful to them in stores.

We found what appears to be the party area in the city center.  Lots of young people drinking wine and beer while feasting on pinchos.  While we were easily the oldest people in the bar, most people were very friendly and helpful to us.

The people in Pamplona are very friendly and tolerant of travelers.  Vicky loves it here and I agree that it is a very livable city.

WE ARE HERE

After a long flight we landed in Madrid and boarded an ALSA bus to Pamplona.  Vicky has decided I will not be doing future trip planning if the days will be as long as the last two.

The bus advertised an on board rest room.  Vicky scanned the bus and did not see one.  Egad we thought.  We each just had two coke zeroes, a long wait for a late bus, and we're facing a two hour bus ride.   Soon thereafter a lady walked to the rear exit stairs and stepped down, opened a small door to the lavatory steps.  Ah, the simple joy in knowing that relief was indeed at hand.

The scenery on the ride from Madrid was different than we expected, but still enjoyable.  We changed buses in Soria.  There was snow in some of the nearby hills and it was actually snowing in others.  We may be walking in snow when we start the Camino on Friday.

We will tour Pamplona today and I hope to post again this evening.  I tried to attach pictures, but Google has decided that since we are in Spain, instructions will be in Spanish.  Ay carrumba, we don't speak Spanish.

Snowing in the hills

Small town on the road

We are atop the St. Augustine lighthouse.

WHO WE ARE

We are a retired couple from Florida.  Like many Americans, I (Don) became intrigued about hiking the El Camino de Santiago, the way of St James, by watching the movie The Way starring Martin Sheen and Emilio Estevez.  I asked my wife Vicky if she would like to hike the Camino with me and earn a compostela.  She initially thought I had lost my mind and gave me that aren't you dead yet glare.  Vicky has since decided this would be a great opportunity to see some of Spain and a chance for adventure.  Who says insanity isn't contagious?

To prepare for the pilgrimage, we read and became inspired by blogs written by past peregrinos (pilgrims) while on their journey to Santiago.  Our favorite Camino blog is Girls on the Way.  A blog about a mom and her two daughters Alex and Sage as they hiked across Spain. 

We both enjoy walking, but neither of us are backpack carrying, long distance hikers.  We have walked in Florida and Oklahoma to prepare for the pilgrimage, some days over 8 miles.  Obviously the terrain is not as challenging as parts of the Camino, but we will get stronger as we walk.

We purchased our backpacks, sleeping bag liners, hiking poles, shoes, rain gear and other equipment we consider necessary for the trip.  None of the items are heavy, but they become heavy when carried together for a distance.

OUR GOALS

We plan to start our Camino at Arre, Spain and proceed to Santiago at a pace that will allow us to see and enjoy the Camino as we travel.  We look forward to meeting and sharing experiences with peregrinos from other countries as we make this journey.  We will begin our journey later this month.

Upon completion of our pilgrimage, we want to visit Finisterre, the end of the world in Roman times, to enjoy the Spanish coast.  Finally, we will travel to Montsegur Castle in France to tour the castle and make the climb up the pog where it resides.

So we are off.  Buen Camino