DAY 25 To Ponferrada

Leaving Pension Riego well rested, I knew today would be at a fast pace.  Vicky always walks faster when going into a city.  Ponferrada is the last big city until we reach Santiago.   The 1,269 foot descent today will act as a governor, but she will at some point hit pavement and I will again be chanting slow down there Seabiscuit.  Our planned walk is just over 7 miles since we will take the scenic route through Campos.  Further but supposedly worth the extra steps.  Plus we will cross the gothic bridge into Ponferrada.

The path out of Riego went quickly downhill.  Descent, God's gift of gravity to old, fat men.  You would believe my butt could fly!  We were making record time, okay, for us.  We soon had a glimpse of beautiful Molinaseca through the brush.

Once there we crossed the gothic bridge.  A bar offered a breakfast of bacon, eggs, bread, and baked beans for €3.80.  Yes, I said baked beans!  While different that were a pleasant surprise to our taste buds.  We both ate them all.  Baked beans aren't just for breakfast you know.

Upon leaving town we ran into two Florida ladies we hadn't seen since Ages.  One of the ladies had been overwhelmed by blister damage to her foot.  They got her a ride into a Burgos medical clinic, she received treatment, rested, and was on her way.  Ultreia!  We were glad to seen her back on the Camino.

As planned, we took the longer walk into Ponferrada through Campos.  My thanks to Vic for not making me walk all that pavement.  We were rewarded with walks by the Rio Boeza and across its gothic bridge.  Vic even stopped to listen to Pink singing on the radio thus allowing me to catch up to her on the pavement we were walking.  Thanks Pink!

We are spending two nights in Ponferrada.  Tomorrow is a needed rest day before we go back into the mountains.

DAY 24 To Riego de Ambrose

We left Rabanal in full rain gear.  The weather service forecast rain for pretty much all day.  They are idiots, not one drop.  I felt as though I was walking in a sauna.  I quickly shed the pants.  Vic doesn't seem to mind them as long as it isn't hot out.

The walk started with a 377 meter (1,236 feet) ascent to Cruz de Ferro.  We then descended 607 meters (1,991 feet) to Riego de Ambrose.  We walked in the mountains all day.  The views were incredible.

We walked first to Foncebadon.  Stopped and ate at the Tienda Bar.  They charged $4.90 for two fried eggs and sent them out to me with a burnt black bottom.  No way Jose, I'm not sucking those eggs down!  I sent them back.  They cooked me some fresh ones that weren't burnt.  The cook came out with the burnt eggs I had sent back and ate them across the table in front of me, glaring the whole time.  What's up with that?  I took the high road and told him buenos Dias on the way out.  I would encourage everyone to eat before getting to Foncebadon.

We continued on up to Cruz de Ferro, the highest point on the Camino at 1,528 meters(5,013 feet).  This was supposed to be a special place where pilgrims leave a rock or item they have carried with them on their Camino.  The rock is symbolic of the burdens they leave behind there.  Cruz de Ferro is not special!  It has become just another crowded tourist photo op on the Camino.  I observed no prayer, reverence, meditation, spirituality, or emotional thought.  The behavior there reminded me of monkeys chasing tossed peanuts at the zoo.  My sincere apologies to the monkeys.

We walked on to Manjarin, a one-man village with a primitive Albergue.  We then walked next to the snow covered north face of the mountains next to us. It was cool and cool at the same time.  Some people chose to walk the highway.  I told Vic she could walk it and I would take the paths.  She walked with me and was rewarded with both naturally beautiful views and foot pain.  The rocks were often large and loose. Making for a somewhat more challenging descent.  We planned to stop at El Acebo but instead blew through there like a May tornado in Oklahoma.

We found a Pension (like a very small hotel) that had four rooms to rent.  They had one with a private bath for €40 and threw in 2 cold beers as a welcome beverage.  What can I say, she "had us at hello."  We met the oldest person in their family, she is 100 years of age.  They treated us well and we both recommend Pension Riego to all weary peregrinos.

Tomorrow we will arrive in Ponferrada.

DAY 23 To Rabanal de Camino

We left the Astorga Municipal Albergue knowing we would be putting in some elevation gain the next two days.  We planned to go up 283 meters (928 feet) today to Rabanal de Camino.  It seems weird that the Albergues even kick you out on holidays, but the next group of pilgrims is coming, so adios!

We walked through several towns.  Murias de Rechivaldo had a bar open so we stopped for a Coke.  Two euros ($2.80) for a 6oz Coke.  And they say they no longer have bandits on the Camino.  We then stopped at Santa Catalina de Somoza and ordered Coke; only one euro with good service.  The banos were clean, had soap, and a hand dryer.  The Albergue run by the bar also looked nice but we had miles to go before the end of our walking.  We walked through El Gamso.  It had a bar called the Meson Cowboy.  Good for a picture a away.  El Gamso did have a nice little park.  We stopped and snacked.

While walking we came upon a fence where pilgrims had used branches to insert a cross.  I inserted one for us.  The heather was very pretty there.

 We heard bells and thought it might be sheep or goats.  Then out of nowhere an explosion of sheep overwhelmed the road.  As we walked further, we found the two bathtubs that reminded me of the Cialas commercial.

When we entered Rabanal, my butt was dragging.  We got two beds at the Albergue.  Our luck was over;  the room had six beds.  We ended with another older couple upstairs.  They were Australian and retired.

The store was said to be open  so we headed that way.  I took a picture of three cats sleeping which I have titled "la siesta de el gatos de la Camino."  I hoped I would sleep that good tonight.  We also
passed the small church and were awed by its beauty.

I bought bread, wine, and pasta diablo ingredients.   The store owner treated us so wonderfully we wished we had stayed at her place.  If we were ever in Rabanal again, this is where we would stay.

 I cooked us dinner and we spent the remainder of the evening talking to the other peregrinos.

I also finally took the time to write out a prayer for Cruz de Ferro tomorrow.  This is where pilgrims leave a stone from home or other personal item behind as they leave their burdens as well.  It is personal so I will not be sharing this on the blog.

Tomorrow we reach the highest elevation on the Camino, Cruz de Ferro.

DAY 22 Rest in Astorga

We  went sight seeing, dining, and shopping for chocolate.

 Whose cruel idea was it to put the mountains between me and a large scale chocolate purchase.  I think it must have been divine intervention.  Knowing I wouldn't  carry more than a few ounces up the mountains, I had to maintain discipline.  I bought some of the orange, strawberry, and white chocolate.  I can get the milk and dark anywhere in Spain.  If I could have only figured out a way to get Vic to carry it.

We went to the Gaudi palace.  It is pretty amazing.  It was so opulent when finished, none of the Bishops would reside there out of fear of contempt by the laity.  I included the chickens in a cage picture for my mom.

Gambas is our food word for Astorga.  It means prawns.  We had them on pizza.  We had gambas gabadena and then had gambas al ajillo.  No I'm not losing weight but my calves are getting bigger.

We were able to get a private room again.  Four nights, we are on a roll.  Tomorrow we leave for Rabinal de Camino.  We will probably lose our record.

The mountains call and we will answer on Easter.

DAY 21 To Astorga

We left Villar de Orbigo at 8:33.  A late start, but we were only walking 15 Kms to Astorga.  The sunrise was bright as we look to East one last time.

We stopped at the next town for a coke and a breakfast tapa.  They make one with eggs and potatoes.  We saw the ladies from Canada in the bar.  They said they overslept.

We set off again and were soon out of town.  As we walked on to a dairy farm, we caught the farmer taking a whiz outside.  Well that's the old joke, European!

Today was a day of firsts. We saw our first rabbit on the trail.  Vicky stepped off the rocky path to walk on some grass.  I caught movement on the ground near her and told her to stop.  No snake, it was just a ground squirrel.  Vic got back on the rocky path anyway.

There were two crosses on the way today.  I'll attach both.  The second one is on the approach to Astorga, but is still about 4 Kms away.  All asphalt and concrete.  While I am quick on the paths, Vicky rules the pavement.  Give her a glimpse of a city and she is off to the races.  I had to tell her several times to slow down there Seabiscuit!  To make matters worse the rail line crosses the Camino.  Their solution was to build a ramp to further torture weary pilgrims.

It is Good Friday and Astorga was in full celebration.  Lots of parades and processions.  Even a children's carnival.  The hotels are full!  We had to check into the municipal Albergue with 160 beds. Because we were early, we got the last small room with only two beds.  They only have four of them.  Three nights in a row with a private room.  The rent is only €5 each.  Definitely not a Parador, but we will manage.

We went sight seeing, but everything is closed in Spain due to the holiday.  Bars & restaurants are open.  We will survive.