I can't think of a worse start of the day on our entire Camino to date. At 4am, the three older Italian men decided to awake and have a Ben-gay party. The smell of menthol quickly suffocated Heidi and me. Poor Heidi was in an upper bunk above one of the balm slimers. To make matters worse they were using there digital phones and headlamps to illuminate the room. It looked like a scene from Close Encounters. They packed stuff, crinkled plastic, slammed doors, and talked loudly in the restroom. My much needed sleep cycle had been trashed. Finally at 7am I lost it. I told them how they were the worst people I had ever been in an Albergue with and that I hoped to never see them again. They didn't understand a word I said, but could tell I had had enough of them. They soon scurried out of the Albergue. Who takes three hours to get dressed and out of an Albergue?
We quickly dressed and my shoes were still wet. My gloves were also still soaked. Urgh! My blood is now boiling. It is cold outside, but I'm burning hot. I stomped all the way up to O Cebreiro. We grabbed a quick Coke and were soon joined by the two happiest women in Denmark, Hanna and Edith whom we met in Trabadelos. Hanna asked what was wrong. I let her know. She wished me a better day and off they went. You gotta love Hanna.
We left the bar to find the folks that had used a bag hauling service to carry their bags up the mountain distributing their bags. Wimpy tourists I thought! We hurriedly went passed them and headed over to the last big challenge of the Camino, Alto de Poio. Thanks to those Italians, I could stomp all day. The climb up Alto de Poio required us to stop several times to catch our breath. Vic was ready for me to slow down.
Over the top and we were on our way to Fonfria. With the socks on my hands that I was using for gloves, I adjusted my hoodie. I had raised my walking sticks and taken my eyes off the path. This negligence is soon punished. I tripped over a large rock and hit my knee. Vic asked if I was ok. I realized I was and that the fall had caused me to refocus away from the events of the morning. I was actually much happier after the fall. Talk about your pattern interrupts. I only wish it would have happened earlier in the day.
We were thinking about staying at the Albergue in Fonfria. We discovered it is located in the middle of a farming community that reeked of manure. We walked on. First to Bidueda and finally stopping at Filloval. We rented the private room in the Albergue and went next door to the bar. Peregrine pay attention, this bar has some of the best food on the Camino. It is truly an Oasis. They also have wifi that actually works.
We met two women from Hong Kong in the bar. Isabel and Sym were staying in the main room of the Albergue. We talked for a long time and shared a lot of laughter. Just what we all needed after a long, hard day. I must say that the vast majority of peregrinos are really nice people!
Wednesday, April 30, 2014
DAY 29 To La Laguna
Today it rained! We were soaked. My Merrill waterproof hiking shoes leaked and I spent the day walking in wet socks. This is very bad for feet; especially road weary ones like mine. To make matters worse, my waterproof gloves were soon saturated. This wasn't supposed to happen. Regardless, we marched 17 Kms and up the mountains about 600 meters (1,830 feet) to La Laguna. There isn't much there, but they do have a nice Albergue. We were in a room with seven beds, all were being used.
We ate at the bar downstairs. The food was not very good. Even the bacon was undercooked and full of gristle. Fortunately, we had a nice lunch earlier.
We met a woman from Indiana named Heidi. She was a hoot! We loved her what you see is what you get personality. She has decided we are all crazy for walking the Camino. At this point, Vic and I were hard pressed to make an arguement for walking. The climb to La Laguna had worn us out and we still have to go on up to O Cebreiro tomorrow morning.
We went to bed hoping that it wouldn't rain tomorrow.
We ate at the bar downstairs. The food was not very good. Even the bacon was undercooked and full of gristle. Fortunately, we had a nice lunch earlier.
We met a woman from Indiana named Heidi. She was a hoot! We loved her what you see is what you get personality. She has decided we are all crazy for walking the Camino. At this point, Vic and I were hard pressed to make an arguement for walking. The climb to La Laguna had worn us out and we still have to go on up to O Cebreiro tomorrow morning.
We went to bed hoping that it wouldn't rain tomorrow.
DAY 28 To Trabadelos
We left Cacabelos well rested and committed to get a few Kilometers behind us. We were surprised to find a river in the town as we left. We also noticed the house with the creek under it. We walked mainly on the road today next to the river. Hamburger feet again! We are in a bowl surrounded by mountains. We know we will have to climb O Cebreiro to get out. After O Cebreiro, there is only one mountain challenge left and we plan to do them both the same day.
There was also an old wine press for us to ponder.
The flowers are beautiful every where we look. It is spring here; at least in the valleys. We stayed in an Albergue in Trabadelos. We have Chinese, Japanese. Danish, Germans, Brazilians, Aussies, French, Italians and US. Everyone is friendly and we seem to understand each other if only on the simplest of terms. We are all on the same Camino.
Enjoy the pictures. Tomorrow we start up the mountains.
There was also an old wine press for us to ponder.
The flowers are beautiful every where we look. It is spring here; at least in the valleys. We stayed in an Albergue in Trabadelos. We have Chinese, Japanese. Danish, Germans, Brazilians, Aussies, French, Italians and US. Everyone is friendly and we seem to understand each other if only on the simplest of terms. We are all on the same Camino.
Enjoy the pictures. Tomorrow we start up the mountains.
Thursday, April 24, 2014
DAY 27 To Cacabelos
We left the hotel this morning with fresh legs. Albeit a late departure, we planned on walking to Villafranca del Bierzo. I'm not really sure what happened, but after we stopped for lunch in Cacabelos my feet decided to stay. We only walked 10 miles! Maybe it was the fact that they have a nice hotel. Ahead was an Albergue with lots of beds and snorers. We are most likely facing Albergues the next three nights. Hotel it is!
We found a bar that serves cheeseburgers. A nice break from the usual bocadillas. I keep forgetting that a lot of places insert a fried egg onto the burger. I hit the warm, soft yolk on the first bite. It exploded all over the table. What a mess! Vic was lucky, her egg was fried hard. Oh well, it still tasted good. Vicky has grown to like them with an egg on them.
We stopped at the little church to get our pilgrim credential stamped and were surprised by the inside of the building. See the pictures below.
We have consumed the chocolate we purchased in Astorga. It was all delicious! Vic's favorite was the orange chocolate. Mine was whatever we we scarfing down at the time. We have never had chocolate like that before. I hope we can get some more while we are in Spain. I would hate to have to take a bus back to Astorga on a chocolate run.
We are headed back into the mountains and I am uncertain about wifi. We may be off the grid for a couple of days. The steepest part of our walk will be O Cebreiro. We will be there in two or three days.
Nothing but small towns and villages await. Some of the Albergues have a reputation for serving only vegetarian meals. Do people actually ponder what kind of wine to have with a vegetarian meal?Egad, what sort of cardiology hell are we entering? My only lifeboat will be the two large chocolate bars I procured this evening. Do not go gentle into that dark night!
We found a bar that serves cheeseburgers. A nice break from the usual bocadillas. I keep forgetting that a lot of places insert a fried egg onto the burger. I hit the warm, soft yolk on the first bite. It exploded all over the table. What a mess! Vic was lucky, her egg was fried hard. Oh well, it still tasted good. Vicky has grown to like them with an egg on them.
We stopped at the little church to get our pilgrim credential stamped and were surprised by the inside of the building. See the pictures below.
We have consumed the chocolate we purchased in Astorga. It was all delicious! Vic's favorite was the orange chocolate. Mine was whatever we we scarfing down at the time. We have never had chocolate like that before. I hope we can get some more while we are in Spain. I would hate to have to take a bus back to Astorga on a chocolate run.
We are headed back into the mountains and I am uncertain about wifi. We may be off the grid for a couple of days. The steepest part of our walk will be O Cebreiro. We will be there in two or three days.
Nothing but small towns and villages await. Some of the Albergues have a reputation for serving only vegetarian meals. Do people actually ponder what kind of wine to have with a vegetarian meal?Egad, what sort of cardiology hell are we entering? My only lifeboat will be the two large chocolate bars I procured this evening. Do not go gentle into that dark night!
DAY 26 Ponferrada
We are staying two nights at the Hotel El Castillo in downtown Ponferrada. A great room with a tub. We are dining on Italian again and even found a Tex-Mex restaurant. It's the most I ever paid for burritos, but ok.
As luck would have it, we arrived for a rest day and it is another holiday here. A regional one, but a holiday none the less. Vic has threatened to hurt me if we arrive in Sarria on a Sunday when everything is closed. My new mantra is walk slowly and do not arrive in Sarria until Monday. They have a cool Templar Knight Castle here. We are right next door, but it is closed for the holiday. We did manage to find a laundrymat open and washed some clothes. Not exactly newsworthy but a big moment for us in our circumstances. Hand washing is overrated.
We found out that hay limonade is not lemonade. It is similar to a sangria wine with lemon. Vic liked it. I was glad I had the Coke for lunch.
We will start out toward the mountains. They've saved the steepest for last. We are much stronger now than when we started and know we are up to it; even if we have to take it in pieces.
A pilgrim told us that children do ok because they don't know any better and people our age do ok because we know how to cope. I think what he was implying is that Vic and I are old. He said the 20 to 50 group struggles to cope. I can't help but disagree with him. Sometimes they over do it, ie too many miles in a day, but they are very hearty and driven from what I've seen. And the majority are nice, even to the "old" pilgrims.
Finally, our animal shot today was of a Dalmation that refused to be quiet until I took his picture.
Enjoy the pictures:
As luck would have it, we arrived for a rest day and it is another holiday here. A regional one, but a holiday none the less. Vic has threatened to hurt me if we arrive in Sarria on a Sunday when everything is closed. My new mantra is walk slowly and do not arrive in Sarria until Monday. They have a cool Templar Knight Castle here. We are right next door, but it is closed for the holiday. We did manage to find a laundrymat open and washed some clothes. Not exactly newsworthy but a big moment for us in our circumstances. Hand washing is overrated.
We found out that hay limonade is not lemonade. It is similar to a sangria wine with lemon. Vic liked it. I was glad I had the Coke for lunch.
We will start out toward the mountains. They've saved the steepest for last. We are much stronger now than when we started and know we are up to it; even if we have to take it in pieces.
A pilgrim told us that children do ok because they don't know any better and people our age do ok because we know how to cope. I think what he was implying is that Vic and I are old. He said the 20 to 50 group struggles to cope. I can't help but disagree with him. Sometimes they over do it, ie too many miles in a day, but they are very hearty and driven from what I've seen. And the majority are nice, even to the "old" pilgrims.
Finally, our animal shot today was of a Dalmation that refused to be quiet until I took his picture.
Enjoy the pictures:
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