Don't believe the part in the movie "The Way" about credit cards. They are great in Pamplona, Lograno, and the other big cities. Except for hotel rooms, they just aren't accepted in the small towns. Trusting in the motto "Visa, it's everywhere you want to be", I didn't get enough euros for this part of the trip. We are two days away from Burgos and it's ATMs. We have only €50. Our plan is to eat tapas and stay in a cheap Albergue. Since we feasted last night, we had a coke for breakfast and started walking.
As we arrived in Villafranca Monte de Oca, we crossed the pedestrian bridge. The stream was moving surprisingly fast for such a shallow stream. I should have remembered from physics about gravity creating velocity.
We tried to find an ATM in Villafranca. No luck. When we reached the end of town there was a sign that indicated the next town was 12 Kms. We still had not eaten, but we weren't hungry. We decided to move on in the fog and mist. We were immediately confronted with the tallest hill of our trip so far. We kept going up and up. I had to stop several times and wasn't sure I was up to this part of the walk. The peak is over 1000 meters (3,250 feet). No wonder the stream was moving so quickly.
Needless to say we were out of energy and had no food with us. We were hoping there would be a bar or store somewhere up here. We rifled through Vicky's backpack and found two small bit-o-honeys. To make matters worse, the temperature was dropping as we went higher and the fog was getting thicker. We hoped we did not miss a yellow arrow. Not that there were many places to go the wrong way.
The views from up there are said to be spectacular. With the fog, we missed them. Once we went over the peak the descent was at a very fast pace. Much of the downside was on a rutted, logging road. The sun was burning the fog away as we got our first sight of San Juan Ortega. We had left Villafranca at 10; we knew this because we heard the church bells. We arrived at San Juan Ortega a little after two.
We rented two beds in the Albergue for €10, dropped our packs, and went to the bar next door to eat. The bocadillas was unremarkable, however, the salad was good. Fresh vegetables were not something I would miss.
Upon our return to the Albergue, I realized just how cold, dark, and grim a place it actually was. There must have been 48 beds in the room. All bunk beds with tired, sagging mattresses. I was reminded by how I had to throw two mattress sets of much better condition away when we sold our house five months ago because the charities would not accept bedding out of fear of bedbugs. The longer I stared at the mismatched bedding and linens I knew this wouldn't work for me.
To my surprise and horror, Vicky said we paid for them, let's stay. We saw a small hotel when we entered town. Having my second princess moment in two days, I knew what I had to do. Get us a hotel room. I found out you rent the rooms at the bar. The bartender said they would take a Visa card for the room. He swiped my card, the transaction processed, and printed two copies. He examined the two pieces of paper and said the card didn't work. The receipt read vente €45. I was sure they had charged my card. The bartender did not speak English and I don't speak Spanish. My third princess moment was at hand. Fortunately, young Josh from California had arrived and he spoke Spanish. The card had indeed been charged and Josh was able to resolve this with the manager. Thanks again Josh.
We retired to the hotel room and watched the animal channel in Spanish. No wifi, but we weren't in that dismal Albergue.
Hope your trip turns better. Is Vic ok? You guys keep well.
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